What is all the Fuss about Peptides?

Peptides in skincare products are particularly targeted for those concerned with ageing, sensitive skin and even those seeking to reduce enlarged pores. 

How will the application of Peptides be beneficial to our skin especially as we age?

Peptides are applied to skincare products to help create a change in the skin. They have the ability to calm and soothe the skin especially useful for reactive and sensitive skin types or for post-treatment skin regimes. Peptides can also help minimise the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles and some have the ability to strengthen the skin.  As technology advances, Peptides are also used to help pore reduction and some have a brightening effect on the skin.

Do we naturally produce our own Peptides?

When we are younger, we naturally produce peptides, which are chains of amino acids, and helps stimulate a positive change in the skin. Peptides are classified as a cell to cell communicator that signals molecules to stimulate our cells to take action whether it will be to repair or to stimulate collagen and elastin. As we get older the naturally occurring peptides reduce.

Therefore when our naturally occurring peptides reduce, a topical peptide product is recommended, as they penetrate into the skin and activate different cells to do their job. There are many different types of peptides, each having different functionality.

Types of Peptides

Signalling Peptides

These peptides send signals or mimic signals to improve Collagen and Elastin production in the skin. They do this by stimulating our fibroblasts to produce healthy collagen and elastin, which is produced in the deeper layers of the skin.

The most popular signal peptide for cosmetic use is palmitoyl pentapeptide (Matrixyl).

e.g Aspect Extreme C and Medik8 Liquid Peptides.

Neuro-transmitting Peptides

These peptides are used to reduce the movement of muscle on the skin to prevent frown lines or laughter lines.  It does this by reducing the release of acetylcholine (essential for muscle contraction) to prevent the breakdown of collagen. Think of this as "botox in a bottle", but having a more gentle or subtle effect.

These peptides are recognised as Snap 8, Syn-ake or Hexapeptide 3 and can be found in products such as Synergie SuperSerum+ and Société Intense Firming Complex.

Carrier Peptides

As peptides are small, they can penetrate the skin’s protective barriers into the deeper layers. When copper is attached to a peptide, the peptide can deliver copper to the living layers of the skin. There is research showing that copper is an effective agent in reducing inflammation and promoting skin healing. Carrier Peptides also help promote collagen production, help remove damaged collagen and promotes natural skin healing.

eg Cosmedix Opti Crystal, Medik8 Firewall and Synergie Improveyes Day

Enzyme Inhibiting Peptides

Are peptides that directly or indirectly inhibit the function of key enzymes such as tyrosinase to prevent pigment travelling to the surface of the skin or MMP's to prevent the breakdown of collagen.  Many of this type of Peptides is extracted from botanical sources such as soy, silk and rice. 

Examples of Enzyme Inhibited Peptides include Societe Triple C, Societe Intense Firming Complex, Societe Ultimate Eye Lift and Cosmedix Affirm.

New Peptide Technology

New peptide technology is being released all the time for example Medik8’s Clarity Peptide contains Crystalide peptide promotes your skin’s natural glow. It targets the natural protein α-crystallin which is responsible for minimising cell waste which can cause a cloudy complexion. In conjunction with softly polishing the skin, Crystalide peptide smooths over the complexion leaving a beautifully translucent, ultra-smooth finish. This product is ideal for those with dull skin.

The recently released Societe Vitamin D Complex product applies new technology peptides to help soften vertical lines on the face as well as pore-refining peptides to improve the skin’s texture.

Whilst Peptides traditionally target anti-ageing and sensitive skin concerns, the rapid advancement of Peptide technology now means that a broader spectrum of skin concerns can be addressed.