Are Serums Really Necessary for Skin Health?

Before I share with you how to choose the right serum I would like to tell you about Gillian who had an excellent skincare routine but was not using serums.

Gillian is a vigilant woman. 

She cleanses twice a day, moisturises twice a day and always applies her eye cream daily. Her weekly routine was just as good; exfoliating her skin followed by a hydrating mask without fail. However when she smiled the fine lines were noticeable  which indicated that her skin was dehydrated and not retaining moisture in the lower levels of the skin.  When I mentioned this to Gillian her response was "but my skincare routine is so good".  

I replied "Yes but you need to start using serums. The products you are using are not being delivered deep enough into the skin, therefore not giving you the skin hydration required and creating any change. This means you are only reconditioning your skin superficially and in your case, you need more". So, Gillian added Vitamin A, B and C serums to her daily skin routine. 3 months later her skin looked hydrated, refreshed and younger.. and these are multiple wonderful effects of using serums.

So how do serums work?

Serums contain active ingredients such as vitamins, anti-oxidants, peptides and AHA's that contain small molecules, this allows serums to penetrate deeper into the skin than a moisturiser. Serums are designed to penetrate and help correct  various skin conditions, such as redness, dehydration or lack of firmness, wrinkles, dark spots or to simply brighten the skin.

What is the difference between a serum and a moisturiser?

Moisturisers, which have larger molecules can only penetrate the first layer of the skin, allowing them to to hydrate and seal in moisture. 

A facial serum can penetrate all three layers of the skin, depending on the types of serum. For instance hyaluronic acid serums have different molecular weights and the smaller the size the more penetration of serums. Retinol serums are the only serums to enter nucleus of the skin cell so perfect for skin regulation. 

Different serums have different benefits:

Vitamin A – Skin regulator

Vitamin B3 – Barrier repair, skin strengthening, oil balancing and pigment blocker.

Vitamin C - Brightens skin, protects skin cells from environmental damage, antioxidant protection, repairing.

Hyaluronic Acid – skin hydration

Peptide Serums – creates change within the skin depending on the types of peptide.

Brightening Serums -  brightening skin, prevent further hyper pigmentation, fades pigmentation spots.

How to choose the right serum?

Understand what you are trying to treat:

• Oilier skin will benefit from a rebalancing serum such as Synergie Vitamin B, Aspect Jungle Brew, Waterlily Rebalance Serum or SpaCeuticals Phyto B3 Serum 30ml
• For pigmentation you need a serum with a tyrosinase inhibitor such as Aspect Pigment Punch+, Cosmedix Simply Brilliant, Synergie Enlighten, O Cosmedics Brightening Serum
• Sun-damaged skin will hugely benefit with an antioxidant such as a Vitamin C serum such as Aspect Extreme C, Societe Triple C and Medik8 Super C Ferulic, Retreatment Botanics Kakadu Brightening Serum.
• Anti aging serums contain peptides and include retinol that work on stimulating collagen and elastin production. i.e. Centella Lift Firming Serum, O Cosmedics Pure Age Defiance Serum, Synergie SuperSerum+,  Société iComplete Kit, and SpaCeuticals Super Smart.
  
• Acne skin benefit from serums that reduce inflammation, strengthen, exfoliate and regulate the oil in the skin. Aspect Jungle Brew, Synergie Blem X, Synergie Vitamin Serum, Medik8 Crystal Retinal 3, Cosmedix Clarity Serum, Hydraflore Corrective Serum, Synergie Dermiotic are prime examples of great serums for acne skin.
• Sensitive or Rosacea skin will benefit from serums that will reduce inflammation and strengthen the capillaries and skin.  Aspect Red-less, Synergie Destress,  Cosmedix Affirm, Medik8 Copper Peptides, Hydraflore Firming Serum are the perfect serums to reduce redness and sensitivity.
  
• Dehydrated Skin would love serums that contain hyaluronic acid such as Cosmedix Surge, Medik8 Hydr8 B5, Aspect Hydrating Serum and the IntraCeuticals range.
  

It is also advisable to seek advice by a skincare therapist to prescribe the correct serum for you.

How to use a serum?

Serums should be used after cleansing and before moisturising. Waterbased serums are designed to travel directly into the skin cells, therefore they should be used first.  Oil-based serums would be applied after waterbased serums as they tend to coat the skin cell. Always remember water before oil. Then moisturise.

Step 1: Cleanse

Step 2 : Waterbased serum

Step 3: Oil-based serum

Step 4: Moisturise

For deeper penetrations of serums, the Synergie Home Skin Roller will allow your serums to penetrate 40x deeper into the skin than if you were to massage them in. Please note the roller is not recommended for acneic or reactive/sensitive skin.